Also see:SWEET SOUTH - Amelia Island
BAREFOOT ELEGANCE - Gasparilla Island
FRESH TAKE+ + +
key west
"THIS IS STILL A TOWN," SAYS JO Coveny, owner of a home design store and Key West resident for nearly a decade. "It's not just a beach with high-rise condos." And that's just what makes this 2-by-4-mile island at the nation's southernmost point unlike any other spot. Century-old B&Bs outnumber luxury spa resorts, and mom-and-pop eateries are far more popular than any chain restaurants. This is an island where the past is always front and center. Old Town ? the area west of White Street in downtown ? became a national historic district in the 1970s, but "the island has changed a lot since then," says Denison Tempel, a local, or Conch, as they call themselves, for the past 30 years. Ramped-up restoration efforts of Victorian, Conch and Bahama-style buildings morphed many into homes and restaurants that have transformed the island from a naval base and fishing town to a live-and-play hot spot. Yet just as things change, the more they stay the same. "There's still that charm of Old Town that everybody can relate to," Tempel says.
GET AROUND Key to this island's appeal is that you can easily move about by foot or bike. Shops on practically every block rent bicycles for about $15 per day. Cruise around on your own, or join a guide who can point out distinctions and provide a peek into island history, especially its now-famous architecture. For years, Tempel led walking tours to the lesser-known sights in Old Town such as the Octagon House on Eaton Street, which was once owned by designer Calvin Klein, or the Donkey Milk House, his own 1866 home where donkey mares were reared in a back stable during the Great Depression (those too poor to buy cow's milk usually came here).
Today he recommends the two-hour Key West Speaks walking tour (keywestspeaks.com), which focuses on architectural history and Old Town's longest-running restaurants (Pepe's on Caroline Street dates the farthest) as well as a slew of cigar shops and the state's oldest public library. It's also the only one that goes through Old Town and the Seaport.
REST YOUR HEAD Nothing beats the tranquility of staying in a historic-home-turned-B&B, such as the two-story Francis Street Bottle Inn. Once a corner grocery and later a boarding house, the newly remodeled Old Town inn looks just like the homes around it ? big porches and louvered plantation shutters are concealed by lush, native palms. The eight rooms have Bahama-style fans inspired by palm leaves as well as linens in crisp blue and green shades. French doors let in the balmy ocean breeze and lead to a porch that overlooks a quiet neighborhood street. Still, it's only a five-minute walk to the historic Seaport to the north and bustling Duval Street to the west. Ask for asecond-floor room for the best views, and check out the gorgeous collection of old green and blue bottles for which the inn is named.
FOOD OF THE ISLANDS Lifelong buddies, co-owners and chefs Drew Wenzel and Michael Mosi serve fresh island breakfasts like French toast stuffed with Key-lime pie at Azur (azurkeywest.com), just a couple of blocks north of the inn. In the evenings, try Mangia Mangia, another locally owned spot ? this one an Italian eatery with fresh pastas made daily ? with a dimly lit outdoor garden that doubles as a dining room. Of course, seafood haunts abound on the island. Especially good is Café Sole across the street from the Bottle Inn. A sheepish exterior conceals a bold, Euro-Caribbean menu. Regulars love the café for its hog snapper, but desserts like a trio of fresh berries with Grand Marnier and the island's signature Key-lime pie are well worth the visit too.
WHERE LOCALS SHOP While the ebb and flow of cruise-ship passengers cram into T-shirt shops on Duval Street, the best Key West shopping is found in Caroline Street's Art and Design District. "This is an up-and-coming area," says Diane Glorie, owner of Coffee Plantation, a cozy boutique coffee shop inside a century-old home where paintings by local artists hang on the walls. "There's a sense of community here," she says, pointing to places like Blue, a boutique that carries everything from trendy jeans to classic wrap dresses by Diane von Furstenberg. There's also a trio of home design shops on the strip: Fast Buck's at Home (fastbuckfreddies.com) for contemporary furniture covered in tropical fabrics; Key Accents (keyaccents.net) for reclaimed wood mirrors and coral lamps; and Coveny's own Style Key West (stylekeywest.com) for slip-covered sofas and bright rugs.
SUN SPOT You can't stay away from Duval forever, especially at sunset. Forgo the crowds at Mallory Square, and head to the top of La Concha hotel. People spill out of the interior bar to a wide rooftop deck on the seventh floor for an uninhibited view. End your night just blocks away at Virgilio's, a relaxing garden martini bar and jazz club. (Hint: The backdoor entrance is on Appelrouth Lane, which keeps it a secret from most visitors.) keywestchamber.org, keywest.com ? LIBBY DEAN HOPPE
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