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I expected loads of Southern charm when I traveled to Tallahassee for the first time, and I found it in bunches. On the way downtown to the new Hotel Duval, I spotted a sea of vibrant wildflowers. A sign said they were part of a highway beautification program. Who knew wildflowers grew in northern Florida—and that folks were dedicated to keeping this grassy area so beautiful?

 While Florida State University and the capitol building undoubtedly top the list of what this city of nearly 250,000 is known for, my weekend getaway was filled with historic plantations, the cypress-filled banks of Lake Bradford and dining hot spots in the budding Midtown district. With no beaches in sight, Tallahassee is surprisingly different from coastal Florida.                                    

WHEN TO GO
Granted, a prime time to visit Tallahassee is in the fall when autumn’s touch is noticeably in the air and college football is in full swing. This is Seminole country, so be prepared to don FSU-emblazoned attire. While Doak Campbell Stadium is the game-day destination, game-worthy takeout grub is just as important. From firsthand experience, I can tell you that Famous Dave’s ranks as one of the best tailgate chow-downs in town. The succulent pit-fired XXL Ribs with caramelized barbecue sauce are easily sharable, so pair the 12-bone slab with “Wilbur” baked beans with jalapeño peppers and hot link sausage. Beyond the football hoopla, however, the Tallahassee I explored revealed a slew of stuff about the city I never knew.

WHERE TO STAY
The swanky Hotel Duval is the newest downtown boutique property and is within walking distance of the capitol. As I stepped off the elevator in search of my room, my senses were heightened. I soon learned that vanilla Bourbon delicately permeated the air. If I had gone one floor up, I would have smelled hibiscus passion. It’s all part of an über-cool concept that pairs colors and aromatherapy. Peaceful neutrals, primarily creamy hues, colored my room, while one floor up, an exhilarating red covered the wall behind the headboard. Ride up even farther, and you’ll come upon Level 8, the rooftop lounge. Floor-to-ceiling windows and shades of pewter fill the space. I settled into an oversize cushy couch situated on the terrace for a jewel-hued pomegranate cosmopolitan. As a fan of cityscapes and skylines, I was smitten by what I could see in the distance. With the sun setting on the horizon, locals enthusiastically pointed out the highlights. I spied the capitol, its historic buildings, Florida State University and the Governor’s Mansion. Level 8 is definitely an unexpected find in the capital city.

WHAT TO DO
A stroll along shady Park Avenue in the historic downtown district, where Spanish moss hangs like a soft beard from sprawling oaks lined up poetically, yields a front-row seat to a variety of home styles that are enough to entertain me for an hour or two. I’m tickled by the Southern wraparound porches of a white-frame Vernacular and a Queen Anne gem, but it’s the Knott House that literally stops me. Here on the steps of this 1843 Classical Revival house, a Civil War general read Honest Abe’s Emancipation Proclamation declaring freedom for all slaves in North Florida.

At the western end of this picturesque district, I reach the 1892 Old City Cemetery. Here I arrange to meet Tallahassee historian Beth Lacivita; her annual October ghost excursions are praised for their spooky authenticity. I peek through the towering wrought-iron gate protecting the oldest public burial ground in Tallahassee and see a deep-set, shady landscape filled with marble headstones and classic Victorian detailing. Lacivita spins a tale about Elizabeth Bud Graham, the rumored witch of Tallahassee. Her grave’s marking, a 12-foot stone obelisk from 1887, remains shrouded in the macabre thanks to an Edgar Allen Poe verse inscribed on it and the monument’s west-facing position, considered a religious abomination of the times.

The next day I find myself inside Florida’s Historic Capitol meandering past a throng of school kids seated on the glorious grand staircase of the rotunda. They seem as itchy as I am to explore the building. Its 1902 glory is intact, including a striking stained-glass dome and red-and-white candy-striped awnings. I ditch the kids and join Andy Edel’s group; he’s an expert on Tallahassee history and the exhibit projects manager at the Florida Historic Capitol Museum. Edel shares anecdotes about William Sherman Jennings (Florida’s governor from 1901 to 1905), who supported draining and developing the Everglades (shame on him!). We look into Jennings’ office with its original roll-top desk made of Honduran mahogany. Compelling political memorabilia, such as the famous butterfly ballot from the 2000 Bush versus Gore presidential election, dot the bright, open spaces of the building. A new exhibition showcases Gov. Napoleon Bonaparte Broward’s rarely seen artifacts, which include a 1905 inauguration ribbon.

Post capitol, I want to be immersed in even more history (as if that’s possible), but now I’m opting for a mega dose of Southern charm. I’m off to the granddaddy of Tallahassee plantation homes, Goodwood Museum & Garden. My camera starts clicking the moment I arrive at this Colonial Revival-style plantation. The live-oak canopy is totally picture-worthy.

Strolling here among treasured Old Garden Roses and evergreen oaks, it’s easy to imagine the circa-1840 property in its prime. I’m led through the main house by a Goodwood docent who speaks of Susan Branch Hopkins, the daughter of Florida’s last territorial governor. Branch threw “hit of the season” parties back in 1866 here. Her tables remain set for company with Victorian china. I stop for a Southern refresher at Fanny’s Garden Café. Glasses full of iced sweet tea just keep coming—perfect for washing down a fab fried-green-tomato BLT with applewood smoked bacon on brioche.

On my final afternoon in Tallahassee, I’m surprised before I even enter the Tallahassee Museum. It doesn’t have the traditional museum cachet of big buildings stuffed with exhibitions. Instead, its 52 acres merge Old Florida with Big Bend cultural history. I lose track of time walking along a meandering elevated path that skirts the cypress-edged bank of Lake Bradford and provides views of wildlife in their natural habitat. It’s my first chance to see a Florida panther, river otters and even a rare red wolf.

WHERE TO SHOP & EAT
Locals tell me Tallahassee’s Midtown is the hub for retail therapy and dining. I can’t resist the multistoried house that’s now the Midtown Design Center (850.562.8696). At Bali Hi Trading Company, a shop with lots of handcrafted objects and furnishings, I pick up a painted bangle decorated with delicate flowers. Kanvas is the spot for a spa break. I wrap up my getaway among the locals at Chez Pierre, a casual eatery that’s a fave of FSU students and area residents. The hopping bar scene overlooks oaks on the lawn. Seated on the wide porch, I dig into savory house crepes filled with fried shrimp in a barbecue crème fraîche and plan a repeat visit—football season or not.