Many Floridians have never so much as seen a real snowflake in their lives. And many winter visitors to Florida dearly wish they could say the same. But this holiday season, I decided to change things up a bit and reinterpret my white Christmas as something a little less nipping at my nose and a little more soft on my toes: the white beaches of Scenic Highway 30A.
So, late December my family and I found ourselves ankle deep in the rolling white grains of Seaside’s sandy beach on the Gulf coast. Bundled up in thick sweaters and rolled-up jeans, we happily caught gusts of fresh sea air with our kites and made “snow” angels in the sand (mercifully without getting a frozen posterior).
This classic American beach town oozes with traditional Southern charm. Rows of wooden clapboard cottages draped in sparkling lights beg you to sit a spell on their wraparound porches dressed in garlands. Each house is personally named, and we settled into the snug Dream Come True bungalow, with hardwood floors, white- washed walls, French doors leading out to a porch swing, and a view of the ocean from the open-air deck and tower.
It’s blissful to spend a family holiday in a charming beach community, where you can easily walk to the lively town center anchored by a Christmas tree. Or head to the community’s Family Pool, covered and heated for winter swims (yes, temperatures in North Florida drop to an average low of 42 degrees). Just steps from our bungalow, there were wooded playgrounds, rare dune lakes and a coastline that stretches 276 miles into the distance.
After settling in, we spent a cozy night with free DVD rentals and a takeout pizza from the Pickle Factory just up the road in Grayton Beach. The crispy thin-crust pizza, topped with sun-dried tomatoes and fresh local shrimp, was hand-tossed and cooked in a vintage oven so prized that the owner brought it down from New York — where it had even made an appearance in the movie Goodfellas.
The next morning we strolled through Seaside Farmers Market in Central Square, ogling the pumpkin cheesecakes and buying up local honey from Twin Oaks Farm. My husband and I warmed up with steaming “Noguccinos” (eggnog cappuccino) from Modica Market while strolling down Airstream Boulevard. We eyed the grilled cheese sandwiches from Meltdown on 30A and our son begged for a rainbow shaved ice from Frost Bites — despite the chilly weather.
As father and son went off to explore the nearby Point Washington State Forest on rental bikes, I got to explore Seaside’s shops — just in time for some awesome Christmas sales! I found vintage-inspired dresses and handmade jewelry in the Déjà Vu boutique and vinyl from the Beatles to the Rolling Stones in Central Square Records. I also discovered An Apartment In Paris, awash with rustic Parisian furniture, and Red Bird Gallery, dense with paintings and sculpture.
I topped off this rare afternoon to myself with a seasonally appropriate Red Wine Massage along with a Chocolate Peppermint Pedicure at the Spa at Emerald Grande in Destin. Relaxing in a silky pale-pink robe, I sipped red wine and took in the sweeping views of the Gulf. Ushered into a warm, low-lit room, I was scrubbed, wrapped in hot towels and given a relaxing deep-tissue massage. Later,
I was treated to hot chocolate and a minty-fresh pedicure.
Utterly relaxed, I met my boys at the famous Red Bar in Grayton Beach for blackened grouper on cheesy-grit cakes and baked eggplant stuffed with shrimp and scallops. A kitschy Christmas tree drowning in red tinsel blended completely with the restaurant’s decor of vintage posters and disco balls, creating a very festive atmosphere.
We ended the evening laughing aloud at the Seaside Repertory Theatre’s Every Christmas Story Ever Told — a mash-up of holiday tales regaled with enthusiastic aplomb by the three-member crew. My son giggled at every slapstick gag and makeshift costume while my husband and I appreciated the onslaught of pop-culture references and irreverent humor.
The next morning the three of us feasted on breakfast burritos and banana smoothies at Hibiscus Coffee’s Sunday brunch. Old Florida mementos lined the walls, and antique furniture decorated the cozy cafe. We took our mimosas outside to the back garden, where gray-bearded men with washboards, mandolins and a stand-up bass played tunes from a bygone era.
Keeping tradition alive, our son posed with Santa at the Grand Boulevard shops in Sandestin; then we were off to Baytowne Wharf Village for ice-skating. The aroma of piping-hot, chocolate-covered donuts at Hartell’s Village Diner beckoned and we gave in. As the sun set, carolers led a parade along the boardwalk. At the very end, a familiar-looking Santa Claus greeted my son by name (we all gasped in surprise) as he tossed candy. visitsouthwalton.com
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